VIRGINIA IS FOR LOVERS

Episode Two: Mountains { Kurunji & Marutham}

Dawn of spring! We were on to the Blue Ridge Mountain ranges in the western part of Virginia- particularly to Shenandoah Valley region situated about five hours drive from Newport News. The Excitement grew taller as we were going to wade through the lush of new greenery after a harsh winter. The weather however was chhillll – equipped with warm jackets to control the shivering we drove in the shimmering SUV inwards to the western part of Virginia.

What a vast difference from what we saw a couple of months earlier and the present day-  the trees filled with the blazing yellow, red and orange leaves during the ‘fall’ season had started to sprout with tender sparkling green leaves to symbolize fertility and growth welcoming the’ spring and summer’. The grasslands were lush with greenery. Seems, in the months of June to August, Virginia will be a landscape abounding in lavish growth of vegetation. After a few minute drive from Virginia’s capital city Richmond, we could sight the range of Blue Ridge mountains in the silhouette.

Had a quick lunch in a joint on the fringes of the mountains and thereafter we were on through the Shenandoah valley region- this mountain part of Virginia cutting through the Shenandoah National Park has several fantastic overlook points providing cascading views of the mountain range. It is recorded to be one of the most scenic drives in the world. It gives a dramatic view of the river flowing deep below and the wilderness of the thick flora and fauna engulfing us from both sides. The thought of us being in the mountain range which was formed millions of years ago is a thrilling aspect. I could not help wondering how initially some one has conceived the idea of a route through the unchartered mountain to connect places and how it was planned, constructed and immaculately maintained in the present day. No drive is complete, without pulling off to the side to take in the views. Keeping even such minute intricacies for the sake of the generations to come, every few miles that promises a breath-taking view has a parking lot- nobody needs to park their vehicles on the edge of the road risking themselves and others. After a couple of hours memorable drive, we were in the periphery of the day’s destination- LURAY CAVERNS – the largest caverns in Eastern America. My assumption that it will be akin to the Antelope canyon in Nevada (refer to my pages of my diary –‘Grand(est) Canyon ) was not even anywhere near to that..

Before entering into the ‘depth’ of the cave, a prelude to what we are going to see in there and what these caves are about!!

On my last visit to the Lincoln Memorial in Washington D.C., I saw a signage in one of the pathways that was leading to the basement- with a piece of information as to what was there inside.. it did not evince much interest in me- something about lime formation from the roof and sides of the structure. I even was joking that if it were in India, we have the ‘urban clap’ to tidy up the place and also I was wondering as to how in a place like America, they have leaking roofs etc. After that I even forgot anything about that conversation. Little then  did I knew at that time it was a phenomenon of sorts peculiar to this part of the country. It is all about a thing called the stalagmite- an upward or downward-growing mound of mineral deposits that precipitates from water dripping onto the floor of a closed enclosure. This cavern is a U.S. Natural landmark.

Ahh… there we are – from nowhere in the midst of Skyline drive the land flattens up and we could see the huge landmark to our right side. After the security formalities and procuring the overly priced tickets, we are going to enter and walk through the incredibly massive cavern formations.

A broad concrete ramp leads us to the entrance – the grim hollowness of the cave welcomes us- except for some occasional hushed whispers of visitors, it is stillness everywhere. The full tour is self-guided. Once we plug in the ear buds with the recorded audio and move in tandem with the literature in our hands, believe me- you are transposed to a world of fantasy. It is not just a few spikes of rocks protruding from the roof or the sides, it is a vast area of over two kilo metres with different formations of rocks that have come into being in millions of years. All I knew about stalagmites are the ones I have seen in the freezer of an overdue un-defrosted refrigerator. I also can draw a parallel to the Holy Amarnath caves in  Kashmir where the ice ‘linga’- a natural Shivalingam, waxes and wanes in the month of July every year with the phases of moon- I have not been there yet!  But here, it is something very phenomenal- it is the result of a chemical reaction of water, carbon di oxide, atmosphere on the limestone sediments in the caves not just today or yesterday, but over years on years. I am no Speleologist, but a lame man knowing a basic knowledge of chemistry to appreciate the work of nature in its own laboratory. Two types of crystallisations occur- upwardly protruding formations on the floor and their pointy counterparts hanging from the ceiling. I learnt that it takes 120 years for the formation to grow one cubic inch! It is really mind boggling to see the array of billions and billions of such emergence in different sizes, patterns, colours. I can see you already yawning and tempted to skip the narrrrrrrraaaation , but I cannot help it . I am so eager to share with you the cryptic beauty of nature and so, taking advantage of your goodness that you’d keep reading further, yet another few hundred alphabets are dedicated for the caves!!

Walking through the well laid pathway in the dimly-lit cave along the incredibly massive, profuse variety of formations and unsurpassed natural colour, gives a feeling that we have moved to a different world. Enormous chambers in the subterranean wonderland are filled with towering stone columns, shimmering draperies (of solid stone of course) and crystal-clear pools. The formations are so aptly named – ‘Fish market’: consecutive row of curved, long, thin formation arranged uniformly.. There is yet another marvel, the ‘Dream lake’. The reflections of the stalagmites from the roof creates an illusion of a small lake of underwater growth- actually it is a perfect mirror reflection of the ceiling- the interesting part is, the depth is hardly two feet at the deepest(!!) part. It makes for an incredible impression as there is no wind to disturb the slow-moving water. ‘Tent’ is yet another spectacular formation- it is like thick columns of drapery hanging over from the ceiling as if in the biggest curtain shops in the world. It is all rock solid stone now, but few of it are as thin as fish fins (why should it be ‘as thin as wafer’ all times!!) One of the most memorable sights in the caverns are the ‘fried eggs’- a stunning pattern as a result of shearing a rock during excavation. I can draw a parallel to the Divine “Salagrama”- a fossil ammonite revered by Hindus as a representation of Lord Vishnu, found in abundance in Nepal. Yet another formation are the distinct mounds or ridges almost all the way to the ceiling in the ‘Giants Hall’! This cave also houses the Stalacpipe Organ- Stalactites were selected from over 3  acres of the cavern and painstakingly altered to precisely match the tone needed to become part of what would eventually become the world’s largest musical instrument. It that way,the subterranean wonderland offers an unique experience to  “hear rocks sing” – the haunting sounds of the world’s natural Pipe Organ! I overheard a guide telling her group that if one were lucky, they’ll get a ‘cave kiss’-after a pause she said a drip of water from the ceiling on the head is what she meant!! {I thought the cave kiss  was like our one and only Kamal Hassan indulges in his film Guna in the Guna caves! Hahahahh….} 

Although certain path is steep and slippery, the overall amazement dwarfed all the inconveniences. The nature has seen to that the cave is not claustrophobic! Steady moderate temperature, free air flow, cross ventilation- an incredible natural air-conditioning system is prevalent here. Overall, the cave tour was astounding-we did dawdle a bit through the tour stopping to gape at our astonishing surroundings quite often, but we never felt rushed.

I felt the visit as a spiritual exercise too- we go into the caves to glimpse another world where the air is sweet and cool, and in the darkest of the dark place we can view the mysteries of nature- though it all exists, we need to put in our effort to see the beauty dwelling deep(within us). It is an environment born in such isolation that brings self-realization and clarity to the mind and appreciation for the abundance of the world. These are places of inner reflection. The rishis in the Himalayan caves and Ramana Maharishi in Tiruvanamalai caves have attained enlightenment. The significance of caves is there in all Religions- places of inner reflection. One thing I ‘realised’ was, I am not a game for it!! Knowing things and Being it are different….I am just a ‘Roamer” not a “Ramar” in the mundane world!! 

As with all other places of attraction, from the caves, we landed to the adjoining souvenir shop filled with all exquisite varieties of stones and related mementos.

As if these are not enough, yet another finest attraction offered is a visit to the Car and Carriage Caravan Museum. This is an awesome place that displays tens of exhibits, right from a horse driven carriage from 1760s to pre-civil war bicycle, the vintage cars of the bygone era to the latest models in the market. Are you a history lover, a car lover or just someone who loves beautifully sculpted sheet metal – this is the place for you! Many of the automobiles here are still road worthy.

It was one of the wonderful day out for us. Dusk was round the corner and we had yet another glimpse of the scenery of the valley on our way back home.

Till I lace up for the next…

J. Ram